By Waqar Abdullah
The Quick Overview
In the world of ‘The Elite Food Restaurants’, ‘The Row on 45 – Dubai’ is one of the most amazing experiences of the world in terms of dining, luxury, ambiance, and food.
Row on 45 is a sophisticated penthouse-style setting that offers a theatrical 17-course experience that combines the heart of British cuisine with the precision of Japanese food. It is located in the heart of Dubai Marina.
- Price Point: Ultra-Luxe (Approx. AED 1,345+ per person)
- Must-Order Dish: Hatta Honey Glazed Brioche with Chicken Fat Butter
- Best For: Anniversaries, Milestone Celebrations, or Culinary Enthusiasts
- Address: 45th Floor, Tower 2, Grosvenor House, Al Emreef Street, Dubai Marina, UAE
The Concept & First Impressions
Immerse Yourself in the Elevated Elegance and Sophisticated Energy
The Arrival: Stepping into a World of High-Octane Luxury
Your adventure starts well before you ever sit down to enjoy the first bite of the seventeen-course meal. To get to Row on 45, one must first enter the legendary Grosvenor House in Dubai Marina. Once on the 45th floor, the doors open to a spectacle. The first thing that meets the eye is a stunning foyer with luxurious leather and brass accents on the welcome desk. The atmosphere is different here because it’s designed to resemble a luxurious penthouse apartment in London rather than a standard business space. Plush fur on the walls and a comfortable reading chair nestled in a nook near a built-in bookcase add to the cozy feeling. This is the introduction to the drama that is visiting the private space of a very rich friend.
The Reputation: A Homegrown Success Story That Conquered the World
The ambitious project is the brainchild of renowned British chef Jason Atherton. While Atherton is a global icon in the world of cuisine, his connection to the UAE goes back a long way. In fact, he was part of launching the fine dining scene in the UAE more than two decades ago. Row on 45 is not just another export from around the world but a very personal project for Atherton. The restaurant’s name is derived from an acronym “Refinement of Work,” which represents evolution. It quickly earned two Michelin stars and several spots in the MENA 50 Best Restaurants list. These achievements are a testament to the fact that the restaurant has lived up to the huge expectations that were put upon it since its inception.
The Hook: The Dual-Terrace Perspective of a Shimmering Metropolis
The one feature that defines Row on 45 from the rest of the competition is the “Three Act” concept. Usually, at other luxury restaurants, you are confined to one table throughout your entire stay. This restaurant, however, requires that you experience three different settings. This begins with appetizers at the “Champagne Lounge,” followed by the main course at the “Main Dining Room,” and finally, desserts at the “Chef’s Library,” which features a Victorian setting. This keeps the experience lively while preventing the four-hour experience from becoming mundane.
The Setting: Interior Design & View
The Decor: A Masterclass In Modern Glamour and Metallic Accents
The interior design of Row on 45 does not have flashy gold plating like other top-end restaurants that offer fine dining in Dubai. Rather, the interior designers have used a range of mahogany, leather, and brass. This gives it a homey feel rather than a restaurant. Lighting plays an important part in setting the ambiance. Lighting here changes from bright and airy to moody and intimate. During the first act, the ambient lighting bounces off the glass shelves of the champagne lounge. As one moves to the main restaurant area, spotlights will only shine on your table and the open kitchen. This forces your eyes to be drawn to the chefs who are working with precision under the heat lamps. The use of natural textures such as stone and wood helps to ground the experience, even at such a high altitude.
The Dubai Factor: A 360-Degree Visual Feast of the City
Its location, perched high up on the 45th floor of the Grosvenor House, gives patrons one of the most iconic views of the city. The floor-to-ceiling windows give an unparalleled view of the glittering Dubai Marina, which you can see stretching out as far as the eye can see. You can watch the yachts sail through the canal far down below, with the skyscrapers of JBR sparkling away in the distance. The height of the venue means that the horizon appears to stretch out endlessly towards the Arabian Gulf. This ‘Dubai Factor’ is especially strong at sunset, when the sky turns a dusty pink above the water. The juxtaposition of the calm, luxurious interior with the vibrant, neon-lit cityscape outside gives a strong impression of exclusivity. It’s a reminder that you’re at the very top of the culinary ladder.
The Seating: Seamlessly Blending Indoor Comfort with Al Fresco Luxury
The seating has been carefully placed to fit well with the three-act structure that has been created within the tasting menu. In the first lounge area, comfortable velvet armchairs and low coffee tables are placed to allow for a comfortable start to the evening. The main dining area has a long, curving counter as well as some smaller tables that face into the kitchen. This ensures that all diners have a front-row seat to the show that is being performed just inches away. While most of this takes place inside to allow for climate control, the outside area is a welcome change. In the “winter” months of Dubai, this area is the ultimate spot to have a drink before dinner or a cigar afterwards. The breeze off the Gulf adds to the sensory experience, making the change between the different spaces feel like a true journey.
The Culinary Journey: A Deep Dive
Embark on a Refined Gastronomic Odyssey Above the Clouds
The Philosophy: French Precision Meets Asian Finesse
Chef Jason Atherton’s approach to this 17-course menu is a “Refinement of Work” (ROW). He has combined the comfort and soul of British heritage cuisine with the precision and quality of Japanese ingredients. The chef’s philosophy is centered on “storytelling,” with each dish on the menu intended to evoke a particular memory or discovery from his travels around the world. Instead of depending on molecular gastronomic tricks, the chef focuses on the essence of the ingredients. Each dish is subjected to a “refinement of work” to bring it to the level of a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. The result is a menu that is personal, sophisticated, and balanced.
The Starters: A Playful Dance of Texture and Temperatures
The meal begins with a juxtaposition of textures and temperatures intended to engage your taste buds right away. You might be treated first to the “Crab on Toast,” which includes a light crab shell crisp containing dressed Norwegian king crab. The cold, sweet crab meat is a perfect match for the rich, room-temperature brown crab emulsion and the bright, cold avocado purée. The “Amaebi” follows, which includes raw sweet shrimp from Ishikawa, Japan, paired with a cold tomato jelly and a warm salted duck egg sabayon. The juxtaposition of cold gelatinous substances and smooth, warm liquid sauces is a thrilling contrast. These dishes establish a high standard for the technical expertise you’ll be rewarded with in the latter courses.
The Signature Main Course: The Legendary Miso-Marinated Black Cod
The Saroma Wagyu A5 stands as the undisputed king of this savory affair. This rare beef product comes directly from Lake Saroma, and the culinary team grills this dish right in front of you using traditional binchotan charcoal. As this dish makes its way to your table, you are immediately hit with the intoxicating aroma of smokiness and beef fat. This dish is minimalist yet effective, with a masterfully seared slice of beef served directly next to a sauce meurette. As you take your first bite, this beef literally melts away, providing you with a rich, savory juice that coats your tongue. A fresh grated wasabi adds a nice, clean taste to this richly marbled beef. A tiny buckwheat tartlet filled with sweet onion and comte mousseline adds a much-needed earthy crunch to this dish. This dish is the epitome of the restaurant’s dedication to providing only the finest ingredients from around the world and treating them with the utmost respect.
The Elite Tip:
Always look for the Saroma Wagyu Grade A5 listed on the menu. This type of beef is renowned for its fatty content and tender texture. Furthermore, look out for the Hatta Honey used to glaze the signature brioche dish, which is locally sourced in the UAE.
The Sweet Ending: A Masterclass In Sculptural Patisserie
Dessert at Row on 45 is so much more than just a sweet ending to the culinary experience. One such dish is the Shizuoka Musk Melon, which comes packed in its own juice and served over ice. This dish includes a light “kakigori” (shaved ice), which is served with rich Hokkaido milk ice cream to round off the meal. Those looking for something a little more complex should try the 73% Altapaz Chocolate Tart. This dish is baked to order and served warm. This Parisian-inspired dish is topped with fruity olive oil and a touch of Maldon sea salt to bring out the rich cocoa. This is a prime example of how simple components can come together to bring about complexity by virtue of temperature and quality.
The Beverage Program: Sophisticated Mixology Beyond The Flavors
The drink menu is equally as impressive as the food, especially when it comes to the non-alcoholic drinks. Rather than serving juices, the mixologists prepare sophisticated “proxies” using techniques like fermentation and cold-pressing. You might, for instance, be offered a combination of oxidized pear, quince, and beeswax, which has been created to have a similar texture to a fine white wine. Another innovative combination is a cold-pressed drink inspired by Chardonnay, which has been mixed with oak butter and yogurt whey to provide a creamy texture. These drinks ensure that those who do not wish to drink alcohol can also enjoy a sophisticated, complex experience. Each drink has been created to link the flavors of the food, illustrating the importance of high-end mixology in the contemporary fine dining narrative.
Service & Hospitality
The Experience: A perfect Balance of Casual-Chic and Professionalism
The service at Row on 45 is at an incredibly high-stakes level that befits a two-Michelin-star establishment. They manage to achieve a tricky balance between “white glove” formality and “casual chic” warmth. You will find that you are greeted by name as soon as you exit the elevator. This makes this massive hotel, the Grosvenor House, feel like a private club. The wait staff are formally dressed, but their attitude is still friendly rather than stuffy or robotic. They have a choreographed ease as they move between the three different spaces that never makes you feel like they are interrupting your conversation. This ensures that the luxury environment is comfortable and accessible to all.
Knowledge: Expert Guidance and Impeccable Culinary Pacing
The staff has an encyclopedic knowledge of the complex seventeen-course menu and its global sources. They can tell you where in Japan the Wagyu was raised or what part of the UAE the honey was harvested from. Every explanation sounds like a story told with passion rather than a script read from an index card. Additionally, the progression of the meal is carefully controlled to ensure that the four-hour journey never feels like it is taking any longer. Your progress is carefully tracked so that dishes are served precisely when you are ready to receive the next part of the story. You will never feel rushed to finish a dish, and you will never be left with an empty plate for more than a few minutes. This helps you fully absorb the transitions from lounge to dining room to library that are part of the theatrical experience.
Know Before You Go
Dress Code: The Dress Code: Effortless Elegance and Urban Chic
The establishment follows a Smart Elegant dress code to keep its environment upscale. Gentlemen are advised to don collared shirts, formal trousers, and closed shoes. While wearing a jacket is recommended, it is not compulsory. Ladies prefer to don elegant dresses or skirts with formal combinations that suit the upscale environment of a penthouse. It is imperative to avoid sportswear, shorts, beach sandals, and flip-flops. The staff here might not allow entry to those wearing casual clothing.
Best Time to Visit: The Timing: Catching the Golden Hour and the Evening Buzz
Given that it’s only open for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday, timing will be critical if one wants to have the whole experience. Therefore, one should aim to arrive by 7:15 PM to settle into the champagne lounge for the first act of your experience. Even though the interior is the main attraction, arriving early will give one the chance to witness the transition of the Dubai Marina skyline from dusk to a neon-lit cityscape. This will give one the chance to experience all three spaces without any pressure to leave before the restaurant closes at 1:00 AM.
Reservations: The Reservations: Why Planning Ahead is the Ultimate Pro-Move
Holding a spot is a serious business, considering that only 22 people are allowed to dine at the venue on a given night. You must also make a prior booking through their booking system, which requires a pre-payment deposit of 500 AED per head. While it is part of the City Social Dubai complex, it does not have a “Ladies’ Night” like other bars in Dubai. It remains an exclusive venue that is usually fully booked weeks in advance to host weekends and special events.
Final Thoughts & Rating
The Final Score
Row on 45 scores a stellar 9.5 out of 10. This is due to the near-flawless execution of a highly complex “Three Act” dining experience. The restaurant succeeds because it takes the concept of culinary excellence and storytelling equally seriously. While the price point is at the highest end of the market in Dubai, the attention to detail from the Hatta honey-glazed brioche to the vintage library setting is justification enough for the price point. The only minor criticism that might detract from a full 10 out of 10 relates to the three- to four-hour experience commitment that is required. For those looking for the epitome of what a modern Michelin experience can be, look no further.
Who is it for?
This is the perfect place for the seasoned gourmand who wants to have a narrative journey in addition to the cuisine on the plate. If you are a person who appreciates the “refinement of work” and wants to see world-class chefs in an open kitchen, this is an intoxicating experience. It is the perfect place to have milestone anniversaries or business meetings where the ambiance has to live up to the high stakes of the conversation. However, it is not the place to have a quick meal, nor is it the place to have a loud brunch with a party atmosphere. Row on 45 is a sanctuary for people who want to have a chance to enjoy the world’s gastronomy at a high altitude.
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Have you tried eating at Row on 45? Leave a comment below and tell us your favorite dish, as well as which of the three “Acts” you enjoyed the most!
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